There exists in the world places that are beyond special in their ability to connect with an inner self deep within each of us. These places summon us from afar to undertake a private pilgrimage to experience and extol the virtues of being and having been suspended spellbound within the transcendency of their elevation.
You may be asking yourself, where can I find such a place?
With 7 sky high trestles, 10 tunnels and 15 miles all downhill, the answer to your search is hands down, without a doubt, “The Route of the Hiawatha” especially if you are an avid bike riding fool looking for incredible scenery through the Bitterroot Mountains of Idaho. That’s not just my assessment either, the Rails-to-Trails Conservancy has named the trail to it’s Rail-Trail Hall of Fame because the route is considered by many to be the “Crowned Jewel” of all rail-to-trail projects in the United States.
The Route of the Hiawatha follows the remnants of the old Milwaukee Railroad through the northern Rocky Mountains, a feat of modern railroad engineering back in the day. The road was abandoned in 1980 and reopened in May of 1998 to cycling & hiking. For much of its life, the line was electrified and transitioned to diesel locomotives near the end of its operational life.
Wallace, Idaho makes a perfect base for your cycling adventures on this trail and its companion, ‘The Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes”. There are a number of wonderful restaurants and places to stay. I prefer AirBnB because the lodgings have more local flavor than the large hotel/motel chains.
You will need a Trail Pass to ride the route which can be purchased separately or in combination with a shuttle ride back to the top. At $27 for weekdays and $30 on weekends for both, it’s a great travel bargain for families and those looking for quality outdoor time. Trail passes can be purchased at the Lookout Pass Ski & Recreation area, you can purchase a day pass or a season pass as I did which entitles you to a summer of rides and shuttles for $64. Bring a picnic lunch and make a day of it. Ride both trails and make a week of it.
The route begins at the East Portal of the St. Paul Pass Tunnel known by some as the Taft Tunnel. The tunnel is 8771 feet long, that’s over 1 2/3 mile of darkness which is why you must have a decent light for your bicycle. Moreover, he said with glee, that’s not the only tunnel you’ll need to turn your light on to get through. Be forewarned, the tunnels aren’t only dark, they can be colder and wetter than outside in the sun and trees.
Prolonged riding through the darkness may not scare you away but then did you factor in your fear of heights? The Kelly Creek & Clear Creek Trestles are both over 760 feet long and 220 feet high: Kelly Creek trestle is 850 feet long and 230 feet tall while Clear Creek Trestle is only 760 feet long and 220 feet tall. Look down, look around, views like this don’t grow on trees, they grow inside a forest of trees following the lineation of the land.
After passing through the tunnel, you emerge at the western portal and the drop off point for the shuttle. Riders who parked at the eastern portal will have to ride back through 8771 feet of darkness to get back to their autos, a fitting farewell to the magic of this place.
The route continues downhill sharing the next 2 miles or so with a road traveled mostly by infrequent shuttle busses. From the Moss Creek parking area to the trail terminus, the route is bicycles and official vehicles only. It’s at this point that the trail enters the loop creek drainage and ultimately forms a large loop as it descends towards Pearson at the end of the trail.
All along the route, there are interpretive signs highlighting the history of the line and the technology that made it possible. Well worth the time to stop, read and enjoy the view as well expand your knowledge and appreciation of this highway through heaven.
The total elevation change for the trail is only 1000 feet over 15 miles, 1-2% grade downhill which translates into an easy uphill ride. On my last day, I started at the bottom, easy ride to the top and then a slow glide back to the bottom. The biggest problem I encountered happened after all the time spent wowing over the views, enjoying the ride and marveling at the marvels and occurred shortly after I arrived at the bottom. The voodoo in this ride alters one’s perception of time making it seem like you’ve only been riding for about 15 minutes.
Of all the trails I rode last year, this was the best. Of all the trails I’ve ever ridden, this is without question the best. The week I spent riding “The Route of the Hiawatha” and “The Trail of the Coeur d’Alenes was one of the best in my bike riding life. If you love riding your bike, then this is a bucket list, must do ride. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.
Links:
https://www.ridethehiawatha.com/the-trail
https://www.railstotrails.org/
